The year was 1996, March gave way to April, and Yr Wyddfa, sporting a frosty white peak, true to its name, was patiently waiting to be climbed by two young, ill-equipped German Hikers Who Went up a Hill but Came down a Mountain1. If I remember correctly, we were trying to follow the Pyg Track, got lost on the way, and met a fellow who was not too keen on our company, short of ramming us off the trail.
Eventually, we managed to get back on track, arriving at the foot of the mountain. Piece of cake! The trail was wide and not too steep until it was not so, for steeper it got and narrow, so narrow, an icy treacherous hint of a path, making the climb precariously arduous.
We got to the peak in one piece, wet, exhausted and freezing, without any hot beverage left in our thermos and the restaurant was closed because it was off-season. Go figure. What a view, though!
There we sat, cold, soaked, and sniffling, in our heavy as lead Barbour jackets when we heard the sound of a diesel train coming up the other side of the mountain and sure enough, a lady in a fur coat and high heels stepped off, big red lips pursed to a ridiculous, cheerful smile, piping and harping about how wonderful that steep climb was. Surreal. Gritting our teeth, we headed back down the same way we came.
Back at the old Welsh lady’s B&B, we were scolded thoroughly for our recklessness, being educated about hapless tourists falling to their deaths each year, telling us to count our blessings, and we best thank the Lord for having made it up and back down alive. I think she had half a mind to send us to bed, separate beds, of course, without supper. I remember her business cards… they were used coasters from the local pub, her address handwritten on the back in big curly letters. The next day, we bid farewell to our grumpy yet endearing host and headed to Llanrwst to visit Tu Hwnt i'r Bont, but that is a tale for another day.
Lucky to be alive and befitting this surreal near-death experience, and having crossed the above bridge near Devil’s Bridge Falls just days before, to Where the Wild Roses Grow, we shall have a listen to Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds. Murder Ballads, released in February 1996, is a superbly macabre, hauntingly captivating album.
In closing, let us rewind to the beginning of our trip, from the very south in Chepstow to the very north in Llandudno.
One of our first stops was Tintern Abbey, of course, and it would be remiss if I did not cite the first few lines from William Wordsworth’s Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey, On Revisiting the Banks of the Wye during a Tour. July 13, 17982
Five years have past; five summers, with the length
Of five long winters! and again I hear
These waters, rolling from their mountain-springs
With a soft inland murmur.—Once again
Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,
That on a wild secluded scene impress
Thoughts of more deep seclusion; and connect
The landscape with the quiet of the sky.
I hope you enjoy this Foto Friday edition, and please let me know your thoughts in the comments below.
Also, there is the small matter of crossing the Arakkis desert together with
and in a (re)read and commentary on what has been called one of the supreme and seminal achievements in science fiction. Dune you know of which book we speak? The mystery of life isn't a problem to solve, but a reality to experience. Experience Frank Herbert’s Dune together with us, read along, listen along, and discuss with us as we share our impressions, just in time before Villeneuve’s Dune – Part 2 is released. Stay tuned for more details!
Great photos, Alexander. Sounds like a interesting adventure to say the least. Now, you might not have been perfectly prepared for the climb but still better than some folks up here in Scotland who go tromping up hills in shorts and flip flops from time time!
Also, that’s a great album. Haven’t listened to it in a while so will need to dig it out
Really enjoying these little snap shots of what seems a life well lived 👍🏼
More incredible photos — wow. These are great. My favorite, I have to say, is that ram.